Dog-Friendly Naxos
Naxos was like a dream - it hit all of the Greek island stereotypes I wanted to experience without the crazy crowds of the more popular Cyclades spots! I intentionally planned a vacation to Greece for spring break instead of the summer because I did not want to be there in the height of tourist season. I chose Naxos because I wanted an island I could easily take a ferry to from Athens that did not host cruise ships. Naxos was truly the perfect choice - it is a large island with many beautiful beaches and mountains and villages in the interior of the island. The ferry drops you in Naxos Town (Chora) which is extremely cute with plenty of restaurants and bars, plus a bus terminal that will take you all over the island!
Getting There
It takes about five hours to travel to Naxos from Athens by ferry. We traveled with Blue Star Ferries, which allows dogs on the deck (or inside the ferry if they’re in a carrier). Unfortunately, traveling on the deck means you are surrounded by cigarette smoke for much of the journey. I was amazed at how disorganized the boarding process was. I thought I was in line, but then people just walked right past me and set up wherever they pleased around the boarding area. There are spots to store luggage on the ferry as you walk in/up, but I chose to keep everything with me at my seat. Our ferry to Naxos took off very early in the morning in mid-April, and it was pretty chilly for the first few hours! I had to put Alice’s coat on and wrap her in a blanket. I found the ride very enjoyable, with beautiful views the whole way.
Where We Stayed
Our Naxos apartment is one of my favorite AirBnBs I’ve ever stayed in! It had a huge balcony, I loved the way it was decorated/designed, and the hosts brought me treats for Easter. Although it’s only a five-to-ten-minute walk from the ferry port, the bus station, and the restaurants and shops along the marina, it feels peaceful and secluded. I will absolutely stay here again, whenever I return to Naxos!
Our Adventures
Naxos is a large island with a lot to offer! We were never bored, but were able to relax as much as we wanted throughout our six days on the island.
Bus Trips
Naxos has an excellent bus system which we utilized several times! The bus station is located near the ferry port and the woman working there was so kind and helpful! Their tours are listed on their website, but they also have regular bus service to other parts of the island that are quite inexpensive. We were there in April, so between it being shoulder season and Easter holidays, the bus schedule was abbreviated compared to the summer schedule. Still, we were able to go so many places! The requirements from bringing a dog depend on the bus driver. Some bus drivers let Alice be in my lap or on the floor, others required she be in a bag (I bought a cheap tote bag from one of the gift shops and used this). The buses always departed the Naxos bus station on time, but were sometimes a bit late when waiting to take a bus back to Naxos from other locations. Below are the places we visited via bus.
The adorable village Chalki - definitely try the cheesecake at Four Tastes and a glass of wine at Caffe Greco and take the short walk to the Church of St. George Diasoritis.
The mountain village Apeiranthos - beautiful views, lots of shops and restaurants, old architecture and a small cemetery. Berdema Café has a great view from its terrace.
Maragkas Beach is a long, beautiful beach with soft sand and turquoise water. We were on Naxos before the season started, so a lot of the beach clubs and restaurants weren’t open yet. However, we got to experience this beach with absolutely no crowds! We walked at least two miles down the beach and back and only encountered a handful of other people.
Agia Anna and Agios Prokopios beaches - closer to Naxos port and more crowded. There were some open restaurants (we visited Santana Beach Club) in the area.
Rental Car Trips
I rented a car twice from Naxos Akrogiali Rent a Car, just for half a day, and had great experiences. They are so friendly - you can go into their office to book a rental car, or you can message them on WhatsApp (+30 697 818 5738) to set up a rental or request to extend your time. I found it very affordable too, and they have automatic cars for my fellow Americans who can’t drive manual ;) Here are the places we visited with a car:
Mount Zas - This hike was stunning!!! We did not make it all the way to the top because it was getting too hard for Alice, but we went up about 1.5 miles and had amazing views all along the way.
Panagia Drosiani - A really old church! Afterward we followed a sign from the main road pointing to a restaurant, Kalliopi. This was maybe the best unexpected stop of the trip - it’s a farm and restaurant run by a Greek family. As soon as we arrived the lovely people at the table next to me insisted that Alice and I join them, and we ended up talking for hours over food and wine (limited wine for me, since I had to drive!). They also had the sweetest little dog who became fast friends with Alice.
Hawaii Beach - Park next to the ruins of an old hotel that are now covered with street art! I wandered down (and then literally slipped and fell down) to this amazing, secluded beach. The water was so clear and the rock formations around were so beautiful. Unfortunately I did have an unsettling experience here. A man arrived at the beach and kept standing uncomfortably close to me. After trying to politely indicate I didn’t want to engage with him for several minutes, I hid my wine opener in my fist and calmly told him that I wanted to have my space and enjoy some peace and quiet; that I wasn’t interested in having a conversation. Luckily he did leave me alone after this and left the area. Just a reminder for my solo traveling girlies - share your location, especially if you are going somewhere more remote, and have something that could be used as a weapon for protection if necessary.
Saint Anna Winery - We did a vineyard tour and tasting and it was so lovely! The owner shares the story of his family’s history on that land and he is so passionate about the wine he is producing. Highly recommend!
In Naxos Town
The Temple of Apollo is visible as you take the ferry in. It’s a great place for sunset and views of Chora (Naxos old town). The streets of Chora are beautiful and have that classic, stereotypical Cyclades look and charm. There are several bars/restaurants that are on the second level facing the port that offer great views. While I found most to be dog-friendly, some of them get very busy after dinner and wouldn’t be enjoyable for dogs then! Because we were on Naxos over Greek Orthodox Easter, there was a lot going on that weekend, including fireworks and traditional ceremonies. Alice is unaffected by fireworks, but obviously many other dogs would not enjoy that! This church had an hours-long mass that started around midnight on Easter Sunday.
Where We Ate & Drank
Below is a list of my favorite restaurants and bars in Chora - the first two are a must!
MBEBEKA **
The Old Bakery (buy a loaf of bread here)
