Dog-Friendly Lake Como
Thriving in Varenna, Italy
I was inspired to visit Lake Como after watching season 3 of Succession! Obviously, my accommodations were much humbler than those of the Roy family or Lukas Mattson, but Lake Como is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. I spent hours looking at different locations along the lake and finally settled on Varenna after seeing the footage on the Varenna Turismo website. I am so thrilled I ended up in this lovely little town!
Accessing Varenna from Milan is an easy (but sometimes packed) one-hour train ride. It costs less than €10 from Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino, and trains run approximately every hour. The train station in Varenna is a 10-minute walk from the main square. If you have a rolling bag (or in my case, a rolling bag and an injured dog in a cast), beware that there are cobblestones and stairs everywhere! There are taxis at the train station, but if you’re staying in town there’s no point in taking them.
Varenna is incredibly picturesque and I met so many friendly people there. Alice became a bit of a local celebrity because of her cast. We were there for a week, and her cast was removed on our last full day there (big shout out to the veterinarian across the lake in Menaggio who didn’t charge me anything and hilariously cursed out the “Frenchie” doctor over and over while struggling to remove Alice’s cast). When we returned to Varenna, sans cast, several people we had met earlier in the week congratulated Alice on her freedom. It was adorable.
Varenna can become quite crowded for such a small place. The ferry system allows tourists to easily bounce around to different parts of Lake Como, which brings many additional guests to Varenna during the day. Although it’s quieter and calmer at night, expect to wait for a table at most restaurants. And for most, you wait in a line - no checking in with the hostess, no leaving your number so they can text when your table is ready. You’ll join the physical queue. Some of the nicer restaurants take reservations, but you may have to make them in person, often a few days in advance.
Where to Stay
I recommend staying in town! There are some beautiful AirBnBs and hotels on the outskirts of Varenna, but they’re uphill and not super convenient for walking to activities, restaurants, etc. If you’re looking for an affordable option, I absolutely loved my hotel, Albergo del Sole. Although my room was small, it had everything I needed and the view from my window made me so happy! The hotel is situated in the main square, next to a beautiful, old church, and there is a large restaurant on the first floor. I ended most of my nights with a glass of wine, reading at one of the outdoor tables.
After befriending the owner on our first stay in Varenna, we were thrilled to return to Albergo del Sole for a longer stay in August 2023!
If you have more money to spend on a hotel and want something a bit more glamorous, look into Hotel du Lac, Hotel Royal Victoria, or Hotel Villa Cipressi.
Restaurants & Bars
On our first trip, I wasn’t blown away by the food I had in Varenna - it wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t fantastic. But I had some amazing meals on our second trip in 2023! In the summer, there is so much outdoor seating (which was all dog-friendly) but I had no issue sitting indoors with Alice either.
The restaurant at our hotel had lots of delicious pizza and pasta dishes, I ate here so many times! You can also buy half-bottles of wine to-go from Albergo del Sole and take them to the lake for sunset or a late-night drink under the stars.
This was my favorite meal in Varenna! It’s a little pricy, and I had to make a lunch reservation two days before (there were no dinner reservations available). The food was delicious, probably my favorite pasta dish I’ve ever had in Italy. The view is fantastic and the terrace is so beautiful! You can also get drinks here in the afternoon.
I loved this cute wine bar, and befriended a very kind Englishman while drinking wine here!
La Vista - This place is spectacular! Their elevated patio has a perfect view of the sunset, and the food was excellent. Make reservations several days ahead of time, and let them know you’ll have a dog (it seemed like they limit the patio to only one dog at a time).
Ristorante Visteria - This newer restaurant at the Hotel Royal Victoria is a special dining experience! The food was delicious, service was impeccable (and everyone loved Alice), the view over the lake and the mountains to the south was breathtaking. It is expensive, but worth the splurge, in my opinion.
Nilug - Right next to Bar Il Molo (which I was not impressed by) is a restaurant closer to the water that I really liked, and our waitress loved Alice. But I can’t find it on Google Maps!
What to Do
Enjoy the views!
Walking around town, especially on the edge of the lake, you’ll be wowed by the views with every step. Here are a few of our favorite places to sit and enjoy sunset, or go swimming.
Veduta Panoramica - Between Hotel Villa Cipressi and Villa Monastero is an entrance to a walkway that will take you down to this spot on the water. It’s a great place to go swimming too! Did I mention the water in the lake is surprisingly warm and pleasant?
Viewpoint Varenna - A path takes you along the beach behind Hotel Royal Victoria. Not sure if we were officially allowed on this beach, but we hung out here anyway!
Port of Varenna - This area is usually quite busy (filled with young children throwing rocks into the water at all hours, it seemed) and has several restaurants around it. But it is picturesque, and has boats and kayaks for rent. We were planning on renting a kayak until the staff member’s dog was aggressive toward Alice and he was extremely rude to me about it…
Botanical Gardens
There are two dog-friendly botanical gardens in Varenna, and they are stunning!!!
Giardino Botanico di Villa Cipressi - This garden is on the ground of the Hotel Villa Cipressi. The gardens are frequently closed for weddings, so find out when they will actually be open to the public and get your tickets!
Villa Monastero - A former monastery turned into a garden with amazing views.
Dog-Friendly Beach
Bau Bau Beach is Varenna’s dog-friendly beach! Dogs can be off-leash to play in the water. Alice wasn’t allowed to get her cast wet, so we stayed on the shore in 2022. But in 2023, I had her swimming and she did so good!!
Take the Ferry
Dogs are allowed on the ferries that take you to other cities and towns on Lake Como! They can be extremely crowded and you may have to wait in long lines to purchase tickets and to board.
Castello di Vezio (no dogs allowed)
Unfortunately, dogs are not allowed at this castle, which lies above the town of Varenna, because they have birds of prey on site. But if you’re able to leave your pup at the hotel, the views from this castle are jaw-dropping. It’s a bit of a hike to get up there, and finding the trail is a little confusing. Definitely worth the adventure!
